TURF CARE GUIDE
How to clean
artificial grass
Most artificial grass needs three things to stay clean: clear the debris, brush the fibres back up, and rinse wherever a dog goes. You can do all of it yourself with a leaf blower or plastic rake, a stiff synthetic broom and a garden hose.
This guide covers the routine, the problems a Fraser Valley winter brings (needles, moss and months of rain), dog odour, what not to do, and when it's worth calling someone. Your turf manufacturer's care instructions come first. Where they differ from this guide, follow them.
01 / THE KIT
What you need
A leaf blower, or a plastic leaf rake.
Never a metal one.
A stiff push broom with synthetic bristles.
Wire brushes damage the fibres.
A garden hose with a spray nozzle.
If dogs use the turf:
an enzyme-based odour cleaner made for artificial turf. Follow its label.
Artificial turf is
low maintenance.
It isn't no maintenance.
02 / LITTLE AND OFTEN
The routine
Whenever debris lands.
Blow or rake off leaves, needles and grit before they settle into the pile. Debris that sits breaks down into fine organic matter, and that's what moss and weeds grow in.
Every day or two, if dogs use it.
Pick up solid waste right away. Hose down the spots where your dog pees, with more water than seems necessary.
Every few weeks, or whenever it looks flat.
Brush the whole lawn against the direction the fibres lean. That lifts the pile and loosens what's caught near the base. Spend extra time on paths and the spots everyone walks.
Once in spring and once in fall.
Do a thorough version of all three. Clear everything, brush the whole area in two directions, and rinse it well. Check the edges and seams while you're at it.
03 / THROUGH THE WET MONTHS
What a Fraser Valley winter does to turf
Needles and leaves.
Cedar, fir and maple debris comes down through October and November. Clear it every week or so, before the rain presses it into the pile.
Moss and green growth.
It starts in shady, damp corners where debris has built up. Brush it out early and keep those corners clear. Moss killers are pesticides, so use only a product whose label allows use on artificial turf, and follow the label exactly.
Standing water.
Turf is built to drain. If water still sits hours after the rain stops, clear the surface first. If it keeps happening, the cause may be the base underneath, and that's a question for your installer.
Snow and ice.
Let snow melt where you can. If you have to clear a path, use a plastic shovel and leave a thin layer behind. Don't use salt or ice melt unless your turf's manufacturer says it's safe.
04 / WHERE DOGS GO
Dog odour
Pick up solids as soon as you can.
Rinse urine spots thoroughly with the hose. That's where most smell starts.
Treat problem areas with an enzyme cleaner made for artificial turf, following its label. Let it work and dry rather than rinsing it straight off, unless the label says otherwise.
Brush the area so the cleaner reaches down to the base of the fibres.
If the smell keeps coming back after rain or on warm days, residue has likely built up lower in the pile and infill. A surface rinse doesn't always reach that far.
05 / A LIGHT TOUCH
What not to do
No pressure washers.
They can blast out infill and loosen or fray the fibres. A garden hose is enough.
No metal rakes or wire brushes.
They tear fibres and can pull at seams.
No bleach, solvents or strong household chemicals.
They can discolour turf. Check your manufacturer's guidance before using any chemical.
Keep heat away.
Barbecue embers, fire pits, cigarettes and sunlight reflected off some windows can melt fibres.
No sharp tools on gum or sap.
Harden it with an ice cube, then lift it off gently.
Spills and stains
- Food and drink: blot it, then rinse with warm water and a little mild dish soap.
- Gum or sap: freeze it with ice and lift it off.
- Oil or grease: soak it up with paper towel, then wash gently with mild soap and water.
06 / KNOW WHEN
When to call someone
If your turf just needs a sweep and a brush, do it yourself.
Plenty of yards never need more than that.
It's worth calling a professional when:
- odour keeps coming back after rinsing and an enzyme cleaner
- high-traffic areas stay flat after a good brushing
- moss or green growth returns after you've cleared it
- you'd rather spend your weekends using the yard than looking after it
Call your installer for
For lifting seams or edges, ripples or bumps, or water that pools after every rain, call your installer. Those are installation or base questions, not cleaning.
YOUR NEXT STEP
How ClearLawn can help
ClearLawn maintains artificial turf across the Fraser Valley. We don't sell or install it. A visit clears out the debris, brushes the pile back up, treats the areas dogs use, and finishes with photos and notes on what we found.
A standard residential yard up to about 450 sq ft is $199 without pets or $249 with dogs, plus GST. Send us your address and we'll measure your turf and email you a firm price before anything is booked. Add a photo if you'd like to know whether it needs a visit yet.
Get my turf price →Common questions
How often should artificial grass be cleaned?
It depends on use. Clear debris as it lands, brush when the fibres look flat, and rinse dog areas often. A thorough clean in spring and fall covers the rest.
Can I use vinegar?
Some owners rinse with diluted white vinegar. Check your manufacturer's guidance first. For pet odour, an enzyme cleaner made for artificial turf is the more common choice.
Can I use a pressure washer?
No. It can blast out infill and damage the fibres. A garden hose is enough.
Does the infill need topping up?
Infill helps the fibres stand up. If you can see the backing between the fibres, or the turf feels hard and flat, it may be low. Ask your installer what type your turf uses before adding any.
Will brushing damage it?
Not with a synthetic-bristle broom and normal pressure. Brushing against the grain is how the pile gets lifted.